Cross-country skiing in Switzerland: trails, events, and tips

Cross-country skiing in Switzerland: an underrated winter world

Cross-country skiing (Langlauf in German, ski de fond in French) is one of Switzerland’s most popular winter activities among residents and one of its most underappreciated by international visitors. While the country’s alpine ski resorts attract global attention, the nordic trail networks — particularly in the Engadin, the Goms valley, and around Davos — are among the finest in Europe, used by elite athletes in Olympic training and casual recreational skiers on the same tracks.

The appeal is multiple: cross-country skiing is substantially cheaper than alpine skiing (trail passes cost a fraction of lift passes), it is more accessible for beginners than downhill, it provides an excellent cardiovascular workout, and it takes you through winter landscapes that chairlifts and ski runs do not reach. A morning of skating stride through snow-covered pine forests in the Engadin, with the Bernina massif visible at the valley head, is as memorable as any alpine ski run.

This guide covers Switzerland’s major cross-country regions, trail networks, the legendary Engadin Skimarathon, technique basics, and equipment rental.

The Engadin: Switzerland’s Nordic capital

The Upper Engadin valley in Graubunden, at an altitude of 1,700-1,800m, has the most extensive and celebrated cross-country ski network in Switzerland — 230km of groomed trails that run from Maloja at the valley head through Sils-Maria, Silvaplana, St. Moritz, Pontresina, and Celerina to Zuoz and beyond.

The majority of the network uses biathlon-style grooming with two parallel tracks for classic technique and a wide prepared lane for skating (skate skiing). Trail conditions are updated daily on the Engadin tourism website, and snow machines supplement natural snowfall to maintain quality in low-snow periods.

Key sections of the Engadin trail network:

Maloja to St. Moritz (30km, classic or skating): The classic long-distance route from the valley head follows the valley floor through birch and larch forests, passing frozen Lake Silvaplana and Lake Champfèr. The views throughout are outstanding, and the trail is wide enough that faster skiers can overtake without conflict. This is the reverse of the Engadin Skimarathon route and gives a taste of the famous race terrain.

Pontresina to Morteratsch (10km return, easy): The flat valley trail from Pontresina toward the Morteratsch Glacier is one of the most accessible and scenic short routes in the Engadin. The approach to the glacier’s retreating front, marked by dated stakes showing decades of ice loss, is both beautiful and sobering.

Champfèr loop (easy, 8km): A gentle circular route around the shore of Lake Champfèr, ideal for beginners learning to use the tracks for the first time.

Skating loops at Silvaplana: The broad flat area around Silvaplana provides excellent skating terrain, with marked circuits of varying length used by schools, racing clubs, and recreational skiers. The altitude and sun exposure make this a particularly pleasant spot on clear winter mornings.

Trail fees: The Engadin trail network charges a daily or weekly pass for groomed trail use. Adults approximately CHF 10-15 per day; weekly passes approximately CHF 45. The Swiss Travel Pass covers rail travel to the Engadin from all major Swiss cities but not trail fees.

The Engadin Skimarathon

The Engadin Skimarathon, held on the second Sunday of March each year, is one of the world’s great sporting events — a 42km cross-country ski race from Maloja to S-chanf through the entire Upper Engadin valley. It is the Swiss equivalent of the Vasaloppet in Sweden or the Birkebeiner in Norway: a mass-participation event with around 12,000 to 14,000 registered participants ranging from elite athletes (the race record is around two hours for men in skate technique) to recreational skiers completing the distance over six or more hours.

For spectators, the Skimarathon is free to watch and spectacular: the start in Maloja sends thousands of skiers down the valley in waves, and the density of participants on the track creates an extraordinary visual spectacle. The finish area in S-chanf and S-chanf/Zuoz has the best viewing with the most atmosphere.

For participants, registration for the Engadin Skimarathon opens approximately nine months in advance and sells out within days for the competitive categories. Visit the official website (engadin-skimarathon.ch) to check dates and register. Previous cross-country skiing experience is required — the marathon is not suitable for beginners even in the slowest non-competitive categories.

The week before the marathon sees the valley fill with training skiers and the accommodation throughout the Engadin at full capacity. Book hotel stays at least six months in advance for the marathon weekend.

Davos

Davos maintains a separate identity from its ski resort fame as one of Switzerland’s premier cross-country destinations. The town sits in the broadest high valley in the Alps and has approximately 70km of groomed trails across multiple areas: the Flüelastrasse, the Dischma valley, the Sertig valley, and around the Davos lakes.

The Davos cross-country scene has a strong racing culture — the Davos Nordic Centre hosts World Cup competitions and the infrastructure reflects this, with timing equipment, a biathlon range, and trails maintained to competition standard. The Davos Cross-Country Trophy in January and the Swiss Ski Championships in Nordic disciplines are held here in some years.

Key trails in Davos:

Flüelastrasse trails (easy to moderate, up to 20km): The closed road to the Flüela Pass in winter is converted to a cross-country trail. The wide, straight trail provides a long, consistent workout. The valley scenery is dramatic.

Dischma Valley (moderate, 12km loop): A beautiful natural valley above Davos with forest and open meadow sections. The return route along the valley floor is flat and fast.

Around Davosersee (easy, 5km loop): A flat lake circuit ideal for beginners and warm-up skiing.

Trail fees: Adults approximately CHF 10-15 per day. Rental equipment available from multiple shops in Davos.

Goms (Aletsch Arena), Valais

The Goms valley in upper Valais — the straight, high valley that extends from Fiesch toward the Furka Pass — has approximately 80km of cross-country trails across the full length of the valley, making it the longest connected nordic network in the Alps outside the Engadin.

The Aletsch Ski Classics race (held annually in February) covers 32km of the valley trail and is a well-established regional event. The setting is extraordinary: the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps, forms the visual backdrop throughout.

The Goms valley is less developed for international tourism than the Engadin, which gives it a quieter, more local character. Villages such as Münster, Ulrichen, and Obergoms are authentically Swiss in atmosphere. Accommodation is more modest and less expensive than in the major resort areas.

Getting there: Train to Fiesch from Bern (approximately 2 hours via Visp), or from Zurich (2.5 hours). The Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn services the valley stops. Swiss Travel Pass valid.

Jura Mountains

The Jura Mountains form a long arc across northern Switzerland, and their rounded summits and extensive forests create a cross-country skiing landscape entirely different from the high Alps. The trails here are lower in altitude (typically 900-1,400m) and more dependent on natural snowfall, but in a good snow year the Jura offers over 1,000km of cross-country trails across the Swiss and French sides of the mountain range.

La Vallée de Joux: The watchmaking valley (also featured in the Swiss watchmaking guide) has 50km of trails. The combination of cultural interest (Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre) and outdoor skiing is unusual.

Vallée de La Brévine: Sometimes called the “Siberia of Switzerland” for its reliably cold and snowy winters, the La Brévine plateau in Neuchâtel canton frequently records the lowest temperatures in Switzerland. Trail conditions here are often excellent when lower-altitude areas have marginal snow.

Les Franches-Montagnes: The plateau region in the canton of Jura has open-meadow skiing and is quieter than the Engadin or Davos. Access via Delémont from Basel or Zurich.

Technique basics: classic versus skate skiing

Cross-country skiing divides into two distinct techniques:

Classic technique uses a diagonal stride (similar to walking) in parallel tracks. The ski kicks backward and glides forward. Classic is more intuitive for beginners and is what most beginners learn first. It requires classic skis with a grip zone in the middle.

Skate technique (skating) uses a V-shaped push similar to ice skating, on a prepared flat surface beside the tracks. Skating is faster and provides a more intense workout, but requires specific skating skis (longer and lighter than classic skis) and a wider prepared lane. Learning skating on cross-country skis takes several hours of practice.

Most groomed trail networks in Switzerland prepare trails for both techniques on adjacent lanes. Beginners should start with classic technique. Equipment rental staff can advise on appropriate kit.

Equipment rental

Cross-country equipment is available for hire at most Swiss resorts and at sports shops near trail networks. Expect to pay:

• Classic ski set (skis, boots, poles): CHF 18-28 per day
• Skate ski set (skis, boots, poles): CHF 22-32 per day
• Beginner packages with instruction often available through ski schools

Clothing requirements are different from alpine skiing. Cross-country generates significant body heat; thin, moisture-wicking base layers and a light windproof jacket are more appropriate than heavy ski clothing. Carry a small pack with water and a snack for longer outings — cross-country burns significantly more calories per hour than downhill skiing.

Combining nordic and alpine skiing

Many Swiss resorts offer combined packages for skiers who want to experience both disciplines. The Engadin is well-positioned for this — St. Moritz’s alpine skiing is within a short bus or train ride of the Engadin nordic network. Davos similarly combines alpine and nordic. The Swiss Travel Pass and local multi-day passes can be structured to cover both.

The winter hiking guide and snowshoeing guide cover complementary non-skiing winter activities for partners or group members who do not ski. For families with mixed ability levels, the flat valley trails around Pontresina or Goms give non-skiers and young children something accessible while stronger skiers tackle the longer classic routes.

Best time for cross-country skiing in Switzerland

The ideal cross-country skiing window in the Engadin and Davos runs from mid-December to mid-March. The Engadin’s high altitude (1,700-1,800m) provides good snow conditions from early December in most years; the valley is also protected from foehn winds that can rapidly melt snow at lower altitudes.

The Goms valley typically has reliable snow from January to March. The Jura is more variable — December and January can be excellent but February can see rain at lower altitudes. Check snow reports (suisse-neige.ch covers conditions across all regions) before travel.

The Engadin Skimarathon at the beginning of March is the peak of the Nordic season. Trail networks typically remain open until the snow melts in late March or early April at higher elevations.

The best time to visit Switzerland covers seasonal weather patterns across the country, useful context for planning a winter sports trip that balances skiing conditions with other Swiss experiences.

Training and technique for cross-country skiing

Cross-country skiing has a steeper initial learning curve than many beginners expect. The balance required for classic diagonal stride — particularly for gliding on a single ski while the other pushes back — takes time to develop. Most beginners achieve comfortable basic movement within 2-3 hours of instruction; competent technique on varied terrain takes significantly longer.

Finding instruction: Every major Swiss cross-country centre has ski schools offering lessons. The Swiss Ski School network (Swiss Ski Schools, sss-esna.ch) operates at Davos, Pontresina, and several Jura locations. Group lessons are typically 2-3 hours and cost CHF 45-70 per person. Private instruction costs CHF 80-120 per hour.

Video analysis: Several Swiss ski schools now offer video analysis as part of the instruction programme. Watching your own technique from outside is the fastest way to understand and correct fundamental errors in weight transfer and arm swing.

Key technique elements for classic skiing:

• Diagonal stride: opposite arm to leading leg, similar to exaggerated walking
• Weight transfer: shifting fully onto the gliding ski before the next kick — the single most important skill for efficient movement
• Pole plant: poles planted at hip height at the moment of weight transfer, not behind the body
• Body angle: slight forward lean from the ankles, not bent at the waist

Key technique elements for skate skiing:

• V-push: both skis angled outward in a V, pushing alternately to each side
• Single-poling and double-poling: both poles together on flat or downhill terrain
• Balance: more demanding than classic; falling outward off the V is the most common beginner error

Cross-country skiing and fitness

Cross-country skiing is one of the most complete cardiovascular workouts available in a mountain environment. It engages the legs, core, and upper body simultaneously, burns significantly more calories per hour than alpine skiing, and can be sustained for long distances without the repeated chair-lift breaks of downhill skiing.

Elite cross-country skiers have the highest measured VO2max values of any sport’s athletes — the oxygen consumption capacity of a trained nordic skier is extraordinary. For recreational practitioners, the health benefits are substantial: studies consistently show that regular cross-country skiing improves cardiovascular health, builds balanced muscular strength, and delivers superior all-round fitness compared to most other winter sports.

The Engadin Skimarathon’s non-elite categories welcome recreational participants of all ages and ability levels. Many participants are not racing competitively but simply want to complete the 42km course as a personal physical achievement. Finishing the Engadin Skimarathon is the equivalent of completing a marathon in terms of personal accomplishment for many cross-country skiers.

Trail passes and access

Swiss cross-country trail networks are maintained by regional tourism organisations and funded through trail pass fees. These fees are legally separate from any ski area lift pass. Enforcement varies by region:

Engadin: Trail pass is required and is checked at trail access points and by patrol skiers. Available at tourist offices and trail access huts. CHF 10-15 per day.

Davos: Trail pass is required. Available at the Davos Nordic Centre and tourist office.

Goms: Trail pass system in place but less strictly enforced than the Engadin.

Jura: Trail passes are used at some sites; others are accessed without formal pass requirements.

For visitors planning extended cross-country skiing, multi-day passes offer better value. Weekly passes save approximately 30-40 percent compared to daily fees. The Swiss Travel Pass covers transport to all regions but does not include trail fees.

Cross-country skiing accommodation and logistics

The Engadin is the best-served region for cross-country skiing logistics. St. Moritz, Pontresina, Celerina, and Silvaplana all have accommodation ranging from budget guesthouses to luxury hotels, all within walking or PostBus distance of the trail network.

Davos has large hotel capacity at various price points and the advantage of the train connection from Zurich making a day trip logistically possible (though a two-day stay is more satisfying given the quality of the trails).

Goms accommodation is simpler — village guesthouses in Münster, Ulrichen, and Obergoms provide basic to comfortable lodging. The lack of international resort infrastructure keeps prices lower than in the Engadin.

Ski touring — combining cross-country skiing with backcountry uplift for high-mountain descents — is a separate discipline that extends the cross-country season and terrain dramatically. This requires additional training, safety equipment, and ideally certified guide leadership, and is covered in specialist alpine guide resources rather than this general overview.